Broken Noses, Black Eyes, and Jeopardized Environments

        Coming on this trip, I anticipated learning much more about the environment, and issues with environmental protection in the countries I would be visiting. I also anticipated finding opportunities for change and methods for protecting the environment. However, over the past few weeks in Ecuador this vision for a healthier environment and increased protection has become more and more difficult to maintain. In Costa Rica, much of their economy is driven by tourism, and the tourism is driven by the fact that Costa Rica has some of the most beautiful and vibrant natural environments in the world. As a result, Costa Rica is invested in protecting the environment, and thus its income from the eco-tourism industry. Ecuador, on the other hand, is driven by mining and extracting resources from its land, and eco-tourism plays a much smaller role in its economy. As a result, the regulations and laws in place to prevent the environment from being ransacked are often disregarded and not enforced. I have spent the last week in Tena, Ecuador, and I was able to see both sides of the spectrum. Tena is regarded as one of the best locations in Ecuador, if not the world, for river rafting, kayaking, and jungle trekking. Its jungles, vistas, rivers, and biodiversity are unrivaled and among the most beautiful in the world. However, its rivers are also filled with alluvial gold from the mountains, and the river banks are easy sources of rocks and stones necessary for building roads and creating cement necessary for the development of Ecuador's infrastructure. As a result, almost all of the rivers surrounding Tena now have massive mining operations operating on the banks of the rivers, as developers punch holes through the jungle to reach the easily accessible river rocks. Several mining operations take rock straight from the river bed, and when this occurs it can divert rivers, increase the rate of erosion, and alter the natural path of the river.
Over the past week we have had the opportunity to learn about the challenges environmentalists face in Ecuador from one of the best sources imaginable, Matt Terry. Matt pioneered whitewater kayaking and rafting in Tena, opening up the first rafting business here, Rios Ecuador, 15 years ago. Throughout his time in Ecuador since his arrival in 1997 he has dedicated his time to fighting environmentally harmful operations in the area. He has started two nonprofit foundations to raise money for environmental protection, and awareness on the harm being caused by unregulated businesses. However, he is fighting an
underfunded battle against an unreceptive community, government, and business world. Ecuador is in debt up to its eyes to China, and must pay back its debt in oil, however the amount of oil it produces only allows it to pay China the interest it is accruing on its debts, placing Ecuador in a hole it can't get out of. It is horrifying to note that China has made similar deals with other Latin American countries, thus indebting these countries until they can pay back in oil. As a result, protecting the environment is a complicated issue in Ecuador; many changes must be made in the government and in the mindset of the people here before they are willing or able to protect the natural beauty of their nation. As for Matt Terry's efforts over the past 15 years, he has succeeded in raising awareness and staving off some of the greater harms, however he has been unable to stop the inexorable growth of destructive mining operations in Tena and throughout Ecuador. My group was the 2nd group Matt knew of that was allowed to actually visit several mines, inspect the machinery, and receive a tour of the operations within the mine. Interestingly one of the mines stated that it filtered water from its gold-sifting machines through 4 pools, however later that day as we were rafting by the same mine we witnessed them pumping water straight from the machines into the river.
Before the past week of kayaking, rafting, and learning about mining operations in Ecuador, we spent a week in a Homestay in an indigenous community by the Napo river. This indigenous community still retains many of its traditions including the making of a traditional Yuka drink, use of the indigenous Kichwa language, and training of Shamans. However, the community also had been given electricity by the government (my house received electricity 2 months before I arrived) and was in the process of becoming a much more modernized community. The day of our arrival we received a lunch of Yuka root, fish stew, and plantain. Then my entire ARCC group played a game of soccer against the community. Soccer is an extremely popular sport throughout Latin America, so we lost without putting up much of a struggle. However, I managed to receive a black eye, and Brett broke the nose of my future Homestay father. Cezar's nose was quite out of place after Brett's 6'3" frame rammed full force into Cezar's 60 year old nose. Unfortunately, the community is a 20 minute motorized canoe ride from the nearest port, and another hour away from a hospital, so Cezar was not about to make the trip to seek medical attention. No one in the community or in my group knew how to set a nose, however I stated that I knew what to do and thought I might be able to help. I did not state that the extent of my knowledge on setting broken noses was watching a couple youtube videos on Nose-setting.. Nonetheless, I ended up pressing my fingers against his nose to no avail. I tried again however, and this time I was not tentative, and pressed with much more force until there was an audible pop, and his nose slid back into its correct position. It was an anxiety provoking experience to say the least, pressing on someone's broken nose while they grimace in pain, but it was well worth it in the end.
Over the next several days, I spent time talking exclusively in Spanish to my host family, helping the mother and her children harvest cocoa, assisting the father with net-fishing, harvesting Yuka, cutting and hauling wood for the community, practicing with a blow-dart gun, admiring my black eye, and gawking at Alligators on Anaconda Island. Unfortunately I did not manage to see any Anacondas on Anaconda island. Also, I had to be very careful where I chose to go to the bathroom, because there is a fish in the river that is attracted to Urea and warmth, and would not hesitate to try making a part of my body its home..

I am doubtlessly missing many important stories and I will edit this post with additional information as I think of it. As for me, I am typing this in a bed at Hostal Austria in Tena while listening to Seven Nation Army by Ben L'Oncle Soul. It is quite necessary to listen to music while typing, because I can not think to the sound of Alex softly and annoyingly snoring in the bed to my left. After this song, I think I'll choose Riptide by Vance Joy, Luka by Suzanne Vega, or Wicked Game by Chris Isaak. Perhaps Latch by Disclosure.. Maybe I will just throw my phone at the wall in indecision. Anyway, I don't think I need to narrate beyond this point, because I will simply be doing the normal preparations for sleep, which may or may not be of interest to you, but are quite predictable either way. So, this appears to be where we part. Goodbye. Goodnight. Till later. See you. Cya. Ttyl. l8r. Till next time!

Rappelling down waterfall. Photo Cred: Franco  

Photo Cred: Gabi 

The Shaman in indigenous community. Cred: Franco 

Mining  on riverbank. Cred: Franco 

River near Tena

Inspecting mining equipment Cred: Gabi 

House in indigenous community

Blow dart practice

Cacao harvest!

Basilica in Quito

View from Hotel in Banos

Harvesting with my host mother.

Black eye from Soccer game! Cred: Gabi